How To Buy The Perfect Treadmill

Whether you are a fitness buff or a complete exercise beginner, a treadmill can be a wise investment. But with the hundreds of companies out there selling treadmills, there is an array of options to choose from.

In this article, I will discuss four of the most important items that you should look for, when shopping for a treadmill.

Motor

When shopping for a treadmill, the most important consideration is the motor.

The majority of treadmills operate on a DC electric motor that provides an easy to control electric current. Quality treadmills use a power output anywhere from 1.5 to 5 horse power (Hp). Obviously the larger Hp will be more expensive.

If you are using your treadmill for your home and for only a few people, then 2 Hp is all you need.

Running Deck

Since you will be doing your exercise entirely on the deck of the treadmill, it is very important that you find one that will fit your frame and provide comfort.

Usually running decks on most treadmills come with two rollers on each end, which help operate the belt. The deck is generally composed a wooden or fibre board that provide some level of spring every time a foot impacts on it. Shock absorbance is important to preventing injury.

When shopping for a deck you should primarily look for decks that can maximize the impact of your legs. In addition, look for at least a 60″ length and 20″ width. This will provide enough room for the average person’s running stride. If you are bigger, then you might need more room.

Frame

Treadmill frames should be composed of a steel or aluminium material. Over time, these frames are known to be much more durable then plastic or wood frames. Durability is the key, so only select a frame that can take a pounding without breaking.

Console

The final factor to consider is the console. This is the one section where treadmill retailers overwhelm consumers with a bunch of jargon and cool sounding gadgets.

When you shop for treadmills, the important item you should look for is a control panel that will display your speed, time, pace and distance. Anything beyond that is your personal preference. While many people love extras, you can get by with just these items.

So if you have a little more in your budget, you can look for some factors

How To Replace Your Treadmill Belt

Is your treadmill belt worn, torn or curling up on the edges? Does your treadmill slow down after you step on the belt and begin your workout?

If this is the case then it may be time to replace the belt.

Here are some thing to check before replacing your belt.

*1. You need to make sure the deck of the treadmill is in good shape. If it looks good then it may only need to be waxed or lubricated.

*2. If the deck shows obvious signs of wear, or has grooves worn into it then you may need to replace the belt and the deck.

*3. If the deck looks good, and the belt is worn or starting to turn up on the edges then it is time to replace the belt. Here are the instructions for doing that. Most treadmills are basically the same so this is a generic set of instructions. If you have an owners manual please follow the manufacturers instructions.

To begin the belt replacement unplug the POWER Cord and remove the motor cover or hood. Then locate the screws or bolts that are used to adjust the belt tension. They are normally on either side at the rear of the treadmill. Loosen both sides and push the rear roller toward the deck.

Now loosen and remove the front roller. If your treadmill inclines, turn on the power and raise the treadmill a few degrees so the roller can be removed. After the front roller is removed, remove the rear roller. Now you are ready to remove the belt.

I know it would be easier to just cut the old belt off, but if you take it off in one piece then you will remember how to put the new one on. Along the sides of the treadmill you will find bolts or screws that hold the deck in place. Remove these and lift the deck and old belt out together. Now is the time to wax or lubricate the deck.

Look at the old belt and the new belt. There will probably be a visible seam on the belt. Normally the belt should be installed so that the seam goes downward from left to right, much like a backward slash. Some belt manufacturers will mark the belt on the inside with an arrow pointing in the direction the belt should travel.

Slide the belt over the deck in the proper alignment and lay the belt and deck together back onto the treadmill. Start all of the screws or bolts before tightening them securely. Decks tend to get warped after a while so you may need to push or pull a little to get the screws started. I have found that it is a good idea to install the rollers before securely fastening the deck to the frame.

Pull the belt to the rear of the treadmill and slide the rear roller through it. Start the adjusting screws in the roller just enough so they do not fall out. Now slide the front roller inside the belt and replace the drive motor belt over the drive gear. Do this before you tighten the roller. After you get the front roller tight, then tighten the rear roller with the adjusting screws. Tighten each side equally until the belt feels snug on the deck.

Now turn the treadmill on. If the belt starts moving, carefully step on the treadmill while holding the side rails. If the belt stops then you need to adjust more. Step off the treadmill,and tighten each screw one full turn and step on the belt again. Repeat this process until the belt does not stop.

Now increase the speed to a fast walk, hold the handrails and apply downward pressure as you walk on the treadmill. If the belt stops or hesitates then adjust some more. Now increase the speed to a jog, probably around five m.p.h. Once again if you feel hesitation in the belt when your foot hits it, adjust it some more. Continue this process until you are satisfied that the belt is not slipping.

PLEASE be careful, if you do not think you can do this then pay someone to do it for you.

Please follow these directions for safe and efficient use of your treadmill for you and your family.

The Treadmill Sensei S Guide On How To Replace Your Treadmill Belt

A question I get asked a lot here at the DOJO (and by my wife’s pesky relatives) is: How the heck do I replace a damaged treadmill belt?

If you find your belt slipping, or your deck slowing down and stop, or if the edges of your treadmill belt look worn, frayed or curls up, then you may need to have your treadmill belt replaced. Luckily, replacing the belt isn’t as hard as you’d think.

The very first thing you’re going to want to do is take a look at your treadmill deck. If the deck looks to be in good shape then there is a good chance it just needs to be lubricated (or waxed). If you see signs of wear such as scratches or grooves then both the deck and belt are probably going to need to be replaced.

If the deck appears fine but your belt is torn, curling or frayed, it’s time to replace the treadmill belt. Thankfully, treadmill manufacturers have made it pretty easy to replace a belt even if you’re not the Treadmill Sensei.

Most important: Turn your treadmill off and remove the power cord! This way you don’t get shocked and you’ll guarantee the treadmill doesn’t turn on while you’re working on it. That would be bad. If your treadmill inclines (which most do), adjusting it a few degrees may make the operation a little easier for you.

You loosen the belt adjustment screws in the back of your treadmill’s deck and then slide the rear roller forward and away from the belt. Remove the front roller and then the rear roller. There will be a number of screws along the sides of the deck which attach the deck to the rest of the treadmill. Remove those and you’ll be able to remove your deck.

At this point you can slide your belt off. Now is a perfect time to go ahead and lubricate your deck as well. From there, put on your new belt and reassemble your deck.

Taking the time to wax your treadmill deck while the belt is off may be a good idea. It’ll keep you from having to do it all over again later on.

Finally, once you have it all back together you’re going to want to test the adjustment. Start your treadmill at a slow speed and walk on it firmly. If the belt stops, hesitates or changes speed then you’re going to need to adjst the rear screws. Adjust as needed until you are sure the belt isn’t slipping or changing speed.

And there you have it, how to replace a treadmill belt.

The Home Buyers Guide To Choosing A Treadmill

Hello again from the Far East on the West Coast, and greetings from the DOJO. This week, before I get in to the nuts and bolts of the treadmills and the ellipticals I work on, I’m going to start with a quick guide to how to choose a treadmill — well, how to choose a residential / home grade treadmill. Choosing a commercial treadmill tends to be a bit easier — go Star Trac, Matrix, Landice or Life Fitness and, in spite of their great ellipticals, avoid Precor treadmills. Precor is a great company, they just don’t quite have treadmills down as well as the other companies. With the commercial treadmills it’s kind of like choosing between a BMW, a Mercedes and a Lexus. It’s all about bells and whistles more than performance…they’re all great machines and we’ll talk about them another time.

Home treadmills are a tough sea to navigate for most buyers — there are so many different brands and they all look alike to outsiders. Luckily, over the past 20 or so years, I’ve had to repair just about every treadmill ever made. In other words, my pain will be your salvation!

My first piece of advice is: avoid anything and everything from Icon Health and Fitness. They’re the manufacturer of the units you’ll find at places like Sears — nothing against Sears, but the treadmills they sell tend to be on the lower end of the quality scale. Their treadmills seem to have specs that are too good to be true for their cost and, truth be told, they are. The old proverb, “you get what you pay for” comes in to play with them. Small motors with high RPMs to give them a perceived higher horsepower (most of their motors should really be rated at under 1.5 HP regardless of what they tell you — a motor the size of a soda can should not be powering a full sized treadmill!), lots of plastic pieces, tiny rollers, and generally unstable machines are par for the course for the Icon brands like Proform, Weslo, Healthrider and Image. Just stay away from them! There are better treadmills even at the more affordable prices that Icon tempts the unlearned consumer with.

On with translating the arcane lore that is treadmill purchasing for the lay person.

Let’s start with the motor. The first thing you want to do is make sure the motor is rated with “Continuous Duty.” Any sales person or manufacturer who gives you a “Peak” rating is trying to sell you a bag of magic beans. Peak is best described as the maximum a motor will perform at before it breaks down. What’s more imporant is: how the heck is that motor going to perform when you’re actually using it? Another thing a shady salesperson might mention is that a common home circuit (120v/15amps) will only let you run about 2.5 HP and any motor larger than that is a waste of money. Technically that is true (about the amps vs. HP, not the waste of money), but the larger motors will tend to last longer as they are not running at the higher RPMs of a smaller motor. And, if nothing else, the larger the motor, the smoother the “ride.” A bigger motor will allow you to run or walk on it without slipping.

The next thing to look at is the size of a treadmill’s rollers. The bigger the rollers, the longer your belt will last and the better the running experience.

Next, and this is my favorite thing — especially when recommending cardio equipment to my in-laws — the warranty. Like anything else, the better the warranty the more piece of mind you will have. The 5 year parts warranty on Spirit treadmills, for example, is one of the best in the business. For me, the more faith a manufacturer has in its own product (i.e. the warranty), the more faith I have in that product. Of course, doing repairs I absolutely love the lower end warranties as it means more paying work for me!

What’s next? The weight and stability of the machine. There is nothing worse than getting on a treadmill and having it move back and forth, or shake, or, even worse, creak as you run on it. The heavier the unit the longer it will last. If you’re used to running on a treadmill at your local gym and then get on most home units, you’ll immediately notice the difference. You don’t want to be running around on something that feels like it is going to fall apart now do you? Don’t answer, that was a rhetorical treadmill question.

The tread and the deck are where most problems for treadmills happen. When the friction from your running builds up between the deck and the tread, the badness begins. Stick with the 4-ply belts/treads that help to reduce the amount of friction, and look at units with reversable, phenolic wax coated decks. Reversable decks let you flip over your running surface to use the opposite side when the original wears down. It’s like having a free second deck if you wear out the first one.

Programs. Don’t be fooled by this. Most people only wind up using 3-4 programs. If the treadmill has 20, that’s cool, but you’ll rarely use them. If you do heart rate training, then heart rate control is great. If not, it’s just an extra you’ll never use…like the clock you’ve never set on your VCR.

Speed and Incline are worth talking about. Most treadmills can go up to about 10 miles per hour and a 10 degree incline. Don’t let speed or incline become a deciding factor unless you’re doing a lot of high speed or high incline training. Obviously, electronically controlled speed and incline are the way to go. If those feature are manual just move on.

Finally, test out the shock absorbtion. You want to make sure you aren’t running on a hard surface. This is a “feel” thing more than a “scientific” one. If the deck is bouncy, move on. If the deck feels like running on concrete, move on. If the deck moves from side to side, move on. You want to find a deck that feels good, with just enough give and little to no lateral motion.

Beyond that fans, speakers, cup holders, magazine racks and even television sets on the treadmill’s console are all just icing on the cake. It’s better to get a good treadmill without a fan or TV and spend $50 to buy your own than to get a crappy, fully loaded treadmill which will eventually just become an expensive coat rack for dirty clothes.

Now, I know I alread typed “finally” but there is one last piece to consider: PRICE. You can only get what you can get but don’t be fooled into buying a lemon. There are decent (and some downright Great) treadmills at just about every price point. I’ll go over some of the best, at least in my experience, treadmills in the under $1000 range in the next week.

Don’t despair, there is a good treadmill out there you can actually afford!

How To Measure Your Treadmill Belt For Replacement

To measure your treadmill belt for replacement do the following:

If your treadmill is not a major brand and it needs a new belt you may have to special order a belt. Following are instruction for making sure you get a good measurement.

Next to the motor the treadmill belt is the most important part of the treadmill. If it becomes frayed or starts to turn up on the sides then it is time to replace the belt.

The treadmill belt will also split at the seam. You should check the belt on a regular basis to ensure it is safe. If the belt wears thin it can ruin the deck, then you have the double expense of replacing the belt and deck.

There are many companies that sell replacement treadmill belts, and some of them will take special orders. But you must have the correct measurement so your belt will fit. Following is the directions to measure your belt.

1. Place a mark on the edge of the belt, then using a string or tape measure go completely around the belt to get the circumference. This needs to be as close as you can get it.

2. Measure the width of the belt.

Example 102″ X 15″

If your belt is so bad that you know it has to be replaced then cut it off and measure the entire length and width of the belt. If it is a very old belt please allow for stretching.

You can also set the rear roller about halfway of the adjusting screws then measure around the front and rear rollers for an accurate measurement. If you can not find a company that offers special order belts let me know.